Thursday, May 29, 2008

sketching & painting along the way

though i've traveled the States and overseas many times and even lived in Scotland long term, i've never really taken the opportunity to do plein aire artwork (sketching & painting outside). 

as i blogged earlier...this time is different. i have been taking brief moments here and there to stop, sit down on a fort wall or a rock in the middle of a river or a large stone near a cairn or a rock wall in a monastery and take out my wee art bag (which includes a wee sketchbook, some wee pencils,a few wee charcoals, a wee travel watercolor set, and a wee cloth)...so i can be creative in the midst of the beautiful scenery that i've been exploring.  


this particular sketch/watercolor is of a scene at the monastic site at Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains in the east of Ireland (south of Dublin). it's one of my favorite spots in all of Ireland and i have to say that it was a wonderful feeling to be in the middle of such a beautiful valley with such rich Christian history surrounding me. 

i don't consider myself a watercolorist (in fact i've only recently learned how to use them) but i am having a lot of fun painting with them as i travel. i certainly am gaining tons of inspiration and am looking forward to returning to my studio in Idaho to paint these scenes on a large scale in oil...and also have a go at creating some abstract collage expressionist paintings from these ancient and spiritual themes. i can tell that this trip has been and is exactly what i've needed to truly breakthrough the artist block i was experiencing earlier in the year. 

i have really felt God's presence here in Ireland and i've been enjoying my quiet and artistic times with Him as i explore, create, and learn.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

the otherworld



standing stones & ogham stones:
it's crazy...i've seen tons of standing stones and many of them are just sitting in the middle of a farmers field somewhere. each time we see one, my friends and i look at each other and ask, "i wonder what happened there?" cuz standing stones were typically meant as a memorial of something that happened. but most of the stones have no markings or signs to educate the explorer...so it all becomes a mystery. i've also been able to see a many ogham stones that have carvings on them (i wrote about the Gallarus Oratory and the stones there in an earlier blog). 

dolmens & cairns:
some of my favorite things to see and experience here are the passage tombs (burial tombs). many of these have celtic myths and legends around them. it is said that they were portals to the otherworld (Tir Na Nog) as i wrote about in an earlier blog. i got to see the Poulnaborne dolmen (pictured) out on the Burren over on the west coast of Ireland. and i gotta tell you that it was an amazing site out there. i've also gotten to see the cairns at Loughcrew (and actually climb inside one of them into the inner chamber). i've taken some fantastic photos of ancient artwork carved on stones. and i climbed the Hill of Tara (where the Lia Fial stands...the stone where the High Kings of Ireland were ceremonially crowned). i will also be returning to the cairns of Newgrange and Knowth (i saw them on my last trip to Ireland in 2005) and going to the Hill of Slane (where St. Patrick lit the Paschal fire challenging the High King and druids over on Tara). 

i am loving the rich ancient history that i'm walking and touching day after day.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

play day on the sea


the aran islands: a trip to inish mor
today i traveled to the Isle of Inish Mor in the Aran Islands. what an amazing day! the weather was grand for a day out on the sea. after taking a coach from Galway Bay to the Connemarra (a region north of Galway filled with peat bogs and rock walls), we hopped a passenger ferry boat that took us to the isle of Inish Mor (the largest of the 3 Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland). Once on the isle we took a minibus tour of the island. 

The Aran Islands are known for their wool and also for their barren and rocky landscape where settlers of old lived in thatched roof cottages with rock walls to divide their land. The island was featured in the Irish film "The Secret of Roan Inish" (and yes, i did see the seals!) 

There are no trees on the Island of Inish Mor and it is home to one of the largest and oldest stone forts (dating back to 1500 BC). This fort sits on the edge of a steep cliff looking out upon the Atlantic Ocean. It was made "famous" in the 90's Irish film "The Matchmaker" with Jenine Garafalo.

i made the long pilgrimage up to the fort to see the breathtaking view...right up to the edge! all i can say is...WOW! and here's the picture to prove i did it.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

all things monastic


so sorry for the long gap between posts...internet access has been a bit absent this last week (as i was staying in Tipperary Co. at a working farm called Fairymount Farm...lots of sheep & horses & dogs & chickens)...i've been going throughe email withdrawals (perhaps you have too?)...so sorry. i am currently in Galway (on the west coast) and i have WIFI access, so i will do my best to give you a recap of my tour of all things monastic.

so far on this trip i've been able to visit 11 monastic sites! PHEW! i know i will see many more before i leave the emerald isle...but let me list what i've seen so far for you....


*Glendalough, Co. Wicklow
*Gallarus Oratory, Co. Kerry
*The Black Abbey, Co. 
*The Rock of Cashel, Co. Tipperary
*Athessal Abbey, Co. Tipperary
*Quin Friary, Co. Clare
*Clonmacnoise, Co. Offaly
*Ennis Friary, Co. Clare
*Kilmacduagh, Co. 
*Rock of Dunamase, Co. Laois
*Cong Abbey, Co. Mayo

most of them have some things that are similiar (structure and features) but all are unique in how they impressed upon my heart. 

i have been able to capture some amazing photos and have walked some beautifully old & historic floors and steps and i've been deeply touched. i've seen castles, cathedrals, abbeys, and round towers. i've viewed breathtaking arches, high crosses, frescos & cloisters. i think the thing that blows me away the most is how old many of these are...many from the 1100's. one in particular...The Rock of Cashel...a very large monastic site that sits on top of a hill...St. Patrick himself walked those corridors. it's knowing stuff like that that really excites me...and to actually be there touching the stones...it moves me to pray. 

as i said above, i'm in Galway...i just spent the evening at the Tis Coili pub listening to traditional Irish music being played while i sipped my pint of Guinness and tapped my feet. ahhhhh good good times. tomorrow i'm heading to the Aran Islands to Inish Mor via ferry boat. i will try to post again before leaving Galway.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

sheep are silly creatures...(and other animal stories)


sheep:
while on this trip i've been able to see tons of sheep. i think sheep are silly creatures. they can be cute and fluffy, but they can also be dorky and a bit scruffy too. they seem to go wherever they think there's better grass (on top of mountains, over rock walls, into neighboring fields...which could mean crossing the narrow winding hilly road that yer traveling on at about 80km. one suicidal sheep in particular came maniacally charging towards our vehicle as we were heading to Tralee. that was a close shave! INSANE SHEEP!
dogs & cats:
i've also seen lots of dogs and cats on this trip too. just about every place we've stayed has had it's resident animals. The Old Barn at Dungarvan had 2 big black Irish Setters that loved to roll around on their backs so you could scratch their bellies and they would also wait by the door in the morning, in hopes that we'd let them in. there was also a gang of white ducks that would come quacking into the garden to noisilly announce their arrival. there was the calico cat at Ross Castle that sat near it's owners shop door waiting to be fed (for the 3rd time). then there was the adorable orange tabby cat that was taking a snooze by the rock wall at Gallarus Oratory. at the B&B in Dingle there was a cute little brown & white King Charles Spaniel (my mom loves those!) . Our current place (Fairymount Farm) has 4 black and white sheep dogs that love to play fetch (even with rocks!SILLY DOGS) and today at Kilkenny Castle there were 2 identical basset hounds that came barking up to me.
other animals:
cows and horses are also in abundance here on the emerald isle. i've even seen horses that were marked like black and white dairy cows! i had to look twice to be sure of what i was seeing. i've seen some magnificent looking horses here (my horse loving friends would enjoy the farm i'm staying at right now...they have working horses there).

that's just a taste...sorry no photo on this blog...i don't have internet access where i'm staying this week, so i'm at an internet cafe in Kilkenny (and unable to upload photos). i will try to add when i'm able. until next time...Slainte!

Friday, May 16, 2008

ancient stones


i've been in Ireland a week now and i've already been able to see several castles, abbeys, cathedrals, monastic sites, and megalithic standing stones. this place is truly a "candy store" for those of us who are fascinated by ancient history. 

today we toured the 15th century old Ross Castle in Killarney. built by one of the O'Donoghue Ross chieftans, it is located on the banks of Lough Leane, and is a typical example of an Irish chieftans stronghold during the middle ages. it's one of my favorite castles. this is where i learned the origin of the "cubby hole" (a wee shelf build in the wall near the fireplace to place the baby a baby to keep warm during cold nights)...and also the phrase "back against the wall" (due to the narrow spiral staircase built specifically to protect the castle, sword fights were to the attackers disadvantage). 

we also toured the Gallarus monastic site near Dingle. there is a church built somewhere between the 6th and 9th centuries in a very unique way built without mortar with corbel vaulting (almost a beehive look) and an ogham stone nearby (pronounced OHM) which had slash marks on them (an early medieval alphabet representing the old Irish language). we also saw a house that was built by St. Brendan (the Navigator). 

and just across the road from our B&B is a standing stone in someone's field. knowing that standing stones usually were placed by ancient peoples to signify something...the question i'm asking is...."hmmmmm, i wonder what happened there?" 

Ireland is a land of mystery.


Thursday, May 15, 2008

a taste of Ireland



while in Ireland (or the UK) there are some foods that are a must eat for me. and with each bite i make memories.

fish n chips: take away
there is nothing like the taste of
 fresh fish battered and fried on top of greasy chips smothered in salt & vinegar in one hand and in the other, a cold orange Fanta. ahhhhh. this trip i got my first taste at a chippy called Mimmo's in the portside town of Cobh (the famous city where the Titanic & the Lusitania were docked before their tragic ends). i sat on a bench looking out upon the ocean, listened to the waves of the water & the cries of the seagulls, smelled the salty sea air, and munched on my fish n chips. Oh aye!


chicken curry & a pint: pub food
this is one of my favorites...the spicy Indian curry washed down by a freshly poured pint of ale. mmmmmmm it makes my mouth water just thinking about it. it's best savored inside of a local pub with lively Irish music being played. my first chance at this delicious fare on this trip was in a pub called O'Mearas in Killarney. i had a 1/2 pint of Smithwicks (or Smithy's as they say in Ireland) to go with my chicken curry. and the song was "Whiskey in the Jar" by the Dubliners piped in over the speakers. Oh there's nothing like it! 

irish stew, cheese toasties, chicken pasties, digestive biscuits, oat cakes, curly wurly bars, muesli cereal, cadbury fruit & nut: etc.
and obviously, there's much more to taste...there's always tomorrow. YUM!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

and so it begins...

Hiya! 
I'm here. I'm really here in Ireland! Oh and it tis grand, that it tis!
Actually, I've been here a few days already. I apologize that this is my first chance at blogging. We've had problems with the internet at the place we're staying and we've not had the time to stop at an internet cafe as of yet. A dear friend of mine sent me off with a card that had a note in it from her that read "remember to be flexible and keep God first"...good counsel when traveling abroad. I will give you a synopsis of what I've experienced so far.

Day One: Flying.
I got up at 3:30am on Friday to be ready to get to the airport by 5:30am. Our first flight took off from Boise at 6:30am. Surprise of all surprises...I didn't get searched nor did I set any alarms off. That's a traveling miracle for me! We made it to Salt Lake with no problems and we had a couple of hours layover...where I ran into some friends from Boise who were traveling to Mexico, it was good to get some hugs and well wishes on the way. The flight to New York was long and then we had about a 5 hour layover at JFK where we met up with another of our traveling party. So 3 became 4. It was rainy and cold in NY but that was okay with me (I love that sort of weather). Our flight from NY was delayed about an hour. After traveling across the Atlantic we safely arrived in Dublin...but then we had to sit on the tarmack forever waiting for a gate. When we finally made into the terminal it was around 11am Saturday (4am Boise time). So all in all...technically we were up and traveling for 24 hrs, but it sure felt longer than that! 
Day Two: Driving.
Once we got into Dublin and retrieved our luggage and rental car, we began the trek south to Dungarvan. The weather was overcast and a bit rainy (Oh aye!). My friends are doing the driving(I'm too chicken to drive a standard stickshift where the driver sits on the right side of the car and drives on the left side of the road. Too scary for me (and if you know me well anyways, you'll know that I'm already directionally impaired and can't drive a stickshift). I'm happy to be a passenger. 
On our way we stopped in the Wicklow Mountains for some photo ops (rolling hills covered in heather, green everywhere, peat colored streams flowing over ancient rocks, sheep bleeting and the fog misting). I breathed in deeply and my heart was full. I took the picture you see of me...right there in the Wicklow Mountains. We drove through Waterford to get to Dungarvan. They are by the sea on the south east coast. We came to the place we're staying at this week....it's a farm out in the country and the barn has been remodeled into a B&B. It's self catering, so we had to go to the grocery store to buy food (we went to Lidl). Things in Ireland are a lot like they are in the UK (I mean as to language (hiya, cheers, toilet, take away, cooker, etc.), having radiator heating, seperate switches for the electrical outlets, the washer (& dryer) in the kitchen, seperate water heating&on/off box in the shower, toilet flush handles on the right side & the water coming from the front of the toilet when flushing, and types of food...tea, digestives (a type of cookie they call a biscuit that tastes like an animal cracker), muesli (granola type cereal), wee packaging of milk, butter, eggs, sugar, etc., and duvets with no top sheet on the bed. I was excited to be back amidst all of this culture...and to hear the accents again too. 
Day Three: By the Sea.
Sunday we got up and headed out after breakfast. We traveled a bit east along the coast to Hookhead Lighthouse. The Celtic Sea was right there...I climbed out upon some rocks and watched the waves roll in. I knelt down and touched the salty cold water...and teared up. We took a tour up into the oldest working lighthouse in the world (you heard me right!) It was really cool to learn about the history. Afterwards we went to Duncannon Fort (a military defense fort in the 12th century)...I found out that it was a location for the recent movie "The Count of Monte Cristo" staring Jim Caviezel. I believe it was the fort (and beach) at the beginning of the movie when they land at Elba where Napoleon was being held. Oh...and there was an art gallery inside one of the buildings and I talked to the guy there (ya know, art gallery shop talk...we exchanged info-as I gave him our new color VineArts Ministry brochure). We then went and found Dunbrody Abbey (which wasn't open when we arrived....so we just walked around the outside and took photos). It's an abbey ruin that is being restored. We also took a scenic drive up into the Comeragh Mountains before heading back to Dungarvan. 
Day Four: Coastal Cities.
Monday was our day to hit the cities of Cork, Kinsale, and Cobh. We had another lovely warm day as we drove. At Kinsale we toured the Charles Fort (another fort like Duncannon). I sat myself down on a rock wall and sketched and painted what I was seeing. It was a lovely relaxing moment for me. I really like my wee watercolor set. As we're traveling around I'm noticing a lot of young people (teens thru 30s) who are traveling too (backpacking and doing tours). Many are from other countries (Germany, the UK, Spain, Italy, Russian speaking countries, France). I really like being amidst all this diversity.
Driving in Ireland is a challenge. Tiny winding roads that are bumpy and have rock walls and hedges along both sides...so when cars pass by it can be a tight squeeze. It makes for fun stories. Like for example...we got lost. Oh aye, tis a grand day to be lost. And we found ourselves on a tiny road out in the country somewhere bookended by very tall bramble bushes...then a car was coming from the opposite direction...there was no room for two cars on the road side by side. My friend tried his best to back up and accidently got the car stuck into the left side of the hedge brambles. The local driver coming the opposite way actually drove alongside us...he was literally an inch away from our car (only because we were stuck into the bushes. After he cleared and went on his merry way...we (as in the 4 of us) got out to push the car out of the brambles (leaving many of us scratched and stinging...as there were stinging nettles in there!) 
In Cobh (pronounced Cove) I got to go through the Queenstown Story history museum. Cobh is where all the major ships left to go to America and other countries from during the 1800s (especially during the famine time). My great great grandfather Michael McCabe crossed to New York on the ship Gratitude on May 5, 1865 with his brother Edward, they left from Liverpool and would've stopped off in Cobh before sailing on to New York. Going through the museum and being there was an emotional experience for me. Afterwards we got fish n chips at a chippy called Mimmos and sat on the pier looking out over the water. It was a peaceful ending to our day. We headed back to Dungarvan.
Day Five: Wicklow Mountains.
Tuesday was a long day of driving to and from the Wicklow Mountains. We went up to Powerscourt Gardens (the largest gardens in Ireland) where we spent a few hours walking around taking photos and enjoying the elegant grounds. I sat on the steps and sketched and painted. Then we headed to one of my favorite spots in Ireland....Glendalough. Glendalough means The Valley of Two Lakes. It's where a monastic site was founded by St. Kevin. in the 6th Century. We took the tour and wandered through the old buildings and graves. There is a complete round tower still standing. I sat and sketched and painted. It was a very peaceful place to be at. I've painted Glendalough several times and I've been there once before. Oh...and we found a small labrynth outside on the grounds. So I took sometime to walk it (a labrynth is different from a maze. a labrynth has one way in and is a continuous path that leads to the center. then you leave going back the same way. It's used for contemplative purposes...for prayer and meditation). Then we drove to a place called Avoca where there are 2 rivers that converge. We went to the spot where Sir Thomas Moore wrote his famous poem "Meeting of the Waters". The spot really reminded me of the Boise River...and there was a hill with a large white cross on top of it overlooking the river! I was having dejavu for Boise! We continued on back to Dungarvan and didn't arrive till 10pm. 
Day Six: Rest.
Today we slept in and are taking things easy (do laundry, catch up on emails, blog, write in journals, nap, tidy up the place, and repack). Tomorrow we will leave Dungarvan and head west to Killarney where we will stay in a B&B for one night and then head to Dingle on Friday to stay for one night and then Saturday we head in land to Tipperary for a week stay at another self catering farm where we will do more day trips out from there. 

I don't know what our chances at internet will be from here. I will do my best to blog when I can. Thank you so much for your prayers and well wishes as we travel Ireland. I take you with me in my heart as we tour about. So until next time....
Slainte!

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Friday, May 2, 2008

one week


i've got one week left till i head out on my journey across the pond to explore the wee emerald isle. soon i'll be walking the old cobblestone streets, frolicking upon the green heathered hills, touching weathered ancient stones, & tasting the salty sea air.
i just wanted to let you know, my dear friends, that i'll be thinking of you as i travel. thank you for keeping me in your prayers. with each step i take you with me.